Written: Otavalo, Ecuador
When my alarm went off at 5:30 a.m. this morning, it seemed too damned early to get up — especially on holidays. A short while later, as I left the hotel, the guy at the front desk knowingly asked me: “Saquisilí?”
“Si,” I replied. About the only reason a gringo would be up so early.
Saquisilí is the most important indigenous market in Ecuador, and it’s held every Thursday morning in the town of Saquisilí, about 20 minutes outside Latacunga. Walking through the still dark streets, I saw other people headed in the direction of the bus station. Shortly, a bus made the rounds of the streets, the driver’s assistant shouting out “Saquisilí!” I hopped on.
The market has a section for household supplies, fruit and vegetables, hardware, etc. It is mostly geared to local needs, though there is a section of Otavalo weavers featuring ponchos, bags, and other things aimed at tourists. I was headed though to the animal market, just on the edge of town.
Things were getting underway when I arrived at 7 a.m. People were already leaving with pigs or sheep on ropes — some leading a number of them. Others were hauling away their purchases in the backs of pickup trucks.
Watching the people is as fun as watching the animals. The Indian women wear their distinctive pork pie hats, and many carry babies on their backs. I was amused to see one very traditional looking Indian woman talking away on her cell phone. It seems absolutely everyone in Ecudor has them.
The animals were divided into different areas — sheep, cattle, and pigs. There were some llamas in with the sheep, and there were a few horses and donkeys, but the main action centred on sheep, cattle and pigs. The pigs were by far the most upset about the market experience. Some were struggling to pull at ropes tied to their legs. The animal cruelty people Mark and I met last year would be frothing at the mouth at some of the things I saw, though on the whole it was relatively humane as agricultural animal handling goes.
I took pictures of animal and people. Some people smiled for the camera, a few objected, but most people simply ignored me. There were a few other tourists, but the locals were far too engaged in business to pay much attention. The most amusing encounters I saw were people struggling to control pigs, some of which were quite huge and had minds of their own. One young man was practically pulled off his feet when his giant porker took control of the rope and went charging into an area of animal feed. Many women led many piglets on ropes like a professional dog walker.
It was still early when I returned to Latacunga and checked out. This was one of the clearest, sunniest days so far, and I had good views of the mountains as I took a bus north to Quito, and then another bus north to Otavalo.
I’m now back in the northern hemisphere, having crossed the Equator between Quito and Otavalo. Otavalo’s main market is Saturday, and it is more geared to tourists, specializing in indigenous weaving. It too has an animal market. I’m here for a couple days, so hopefully can hike and take in the market.
