Paradise is nice

Caye Caulker is a short boat ride into the Caribbean from Belize City. It’s popular with tourists, but hasn’t yet been overbuilt and spoiled like some of the other tourist locations nearby. It’s a great base to snorkel or scuba dive from in the nearby barrier reef. Although the temperature is around 30 degrees C, there’s a continual cool breeze off the sea. You can always take a dip at the public beach or grab a beer at the Lazy Lizard. (Richard McGuire Photo)

I haven’t ridden a one-speed bicycle with pedal brakes since I was a kid, but the pedal brake bicycle I rented yesterday and today is a good analogy for Caye Caulker. There is only one speed here — laid back.

Caye Caulker is certainly a tourist destination, but it hasn’t yet been overdeveloped. It’s small enough that you can get from one end of the island to the other in about 10 minutes by bicycle. The only paved surface is the airstrip at the south end of the island. The rest is sand and dirt roads where mangy dogs lie around, and tourists and locals simply bike around them.

Weather is warm, but a cool and steady breeze blows in off the sea keeping things comfortable. From my hotel, it’s only a few feet across the sandy road, down the dock, and into the water.

There is no cultural or educational reason for me to be here. It is simply a time to decompress, try to put work out of my mind, and slow my pace. The cultural and educational stuff will come later.

I spent much of today exploring by bicycle, swimming and relaxing. At the south end of the island is a wild area with mangroves, a tree with complex roots that grows in salt water and is home to many animal, bird and fish species.

There are still lots for sale here at well under $100,000 U.S., or around that and up for sea front lots. It could be a great investment if Caye Caulker takes off as a tourist destination. Then again, with global warming, the whole island could some day be under water.

The food is good here. Tonight I had barracuda steak cooked in foil with tomatoes, onions, peppers and spices. It was a very good. You can eat seafood, Mexican food, Belizean food, or whatever else.

Aside from swimming, or lying around in hammocks, the main activity here seems to be the many bars. There’s also a lot of activity centered around diving and snorkeling. Some excursions go out to neighboring coral reefs. I’m tempted to give snorkeling a try if I can find prescription goggles to rent. One of the places where expeditions go is called shark and ray alley, and you can swim among sharks and stingrays. Steven Spielberg and Jaws aside, it’s a popular spot, and only a few tourists get eaten each year. I may do that, or rent a kayak.

Paradise is nice, but by Friday I plan to head back to the mainland and to western Belize before crossing into Guatemala.

Click on thumbnails below to see slide show gallery:

 

 

My hotel is basic, but it has the necessary comforts — a fan, hot water, and wireless high-speed internet. Best of all, you can swim from the dock across the sandy street. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Numerous docks line the water at tranquil Caye Caulker, Belize. (Richard McGuire Photo)
People party on one of the many boats moored off Caye Caulker, Belize. (Richard McGuire Photo)
A cosmic sunset brightens the sky as evening descends on Caye Caulker, Belize. Although tourism is a major business on this island, it hasn’t yet destroyed it, as has occurred in larger resorts. (Richard McGuire Photo)
The sun sets behind palm fronds at Caye Caulker, Belize. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Two men get a boat ready in the water off Caye Caulker, Belize. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Numerous docks line the water at tranquil Caye Caulker, Belize. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Ignacio’s Beach Cabins are typical of budget accommodation on Caye Caulker. I considered staying there, but chose to stay in a more main area. These cabins are perfect if you want to lie in a hammock and watch the waves. (Richard McGuire Photo)
A bird perches on a tree among the mangroves of Caye Caulker, Belize. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Flowers bloom everywhere in Belize. Bougainvillea, hybiscus and many others. (Richard McGuire Photo)
The action takes place at the end of docks on the windward (east) side of Caye Caulker. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Frigate birds fly overhead hoping for scraps as fishermen clean their catch at the water’s edge in Caye Caulker, Belize. (Richard McGuire Photo)
A frigate bird soars overhead, waiting for scraps for dinner, as fishermen cut up their catch. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Frigate birds fly overhead hoping for scraps as fishermen clean their catch at the water’s edge in Caye Caulker, Belize. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Frigate birds fly overhead hoping for scraps as fishermen clean their catch at the water’s edge in Caye Caulker, Belize. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Tropical sunsets are spectacular off the back of Caye Caulker, a pair of islands a short boat ride from Belize City. (Richard McGuire Photo)
A stack of lobster traps sits on a dock at Caye Caulker, Belize. (Richard McGuire Photo)
A café in Caye Caulker advertises service in nine languages in addition to English. English is the main language of Belize, but Spanish is also widely spoken. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Birds perch on remnants of an old dock at Caye Caulker, Belize. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Transportation on Caye Caulker is generally by walking or biking, with golf carts being the fastest vehicles. With sand everywhere, barefoot is fine. (Richard McGuire Photo)
I was exploring the area around the airport at Caye Caulker, Belize, when this plane made a landing. I had time to find a safe spot beside the runway to photograph it landing. (Richard McGuire Photo)
The marshy area behind the airstrip on the main island of Caye Caulker, Belize, is a great place to watch birds — as long as you get off the runway when planes were landing. (Richard McGuire Photo)
Tropical sunsets are spectacular off the back of Caye Caulker, a pair of islands a short boat ride from Belize City. (Richard McGuire Photo)

2 thoughts on “Paradise is nice”

  1. Patty, the thought of buying a hotel, going into business, and moving down here permanently did cross my mind more than once.

    The trouble with paradise is it’s very enjoyable for a while, but then it gets boring. I like my paradise in small doses.

    Also, although cheap by Canadian standards, Belize is much more expensive than Guatemala. Living modestly here without really roughing it can be about $60 a day or more. I need to average about half that.

    Love Richard

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